Box Wines
A wine blog with news and reviews of affordable wines

Price: $15
Maker: Ravenswood, Sonoma, California
Varietal: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, natural cork
Alcohol: 13.5%
Our Rating: 8 out of 10

Ravenswood Zen of Zin 2004 is an OK Zin that isn’t huge, but may satisfy the typical red wine drinker . Its nose is a nice blend of dark berries and spice. The flavor is a bit oaky, but there is a good balance of blackberry and tannins. Zen of Zin isn’t extremely fruity like some Zins, and it doesn’t offer the smoky complexity we like… still, its structure partially makes up for the fact that it’s not an entirely typical Zinfandel. The finish is big, spicy, and long-lasting. In short, this wine starts and ends well, but on the palate it’s a bit lacking.

Zen of Zin is from Ravenswood Winery, though we couldn’t learn much about the wine from the Ravenswood website. Oddly, despite careful searching, it didn’t seem to be listed among their various offerings. Even the listings they did offer were kind of sketchy - we really like the sites that offer a data sheet for each wine, with background information, the winemaker’s tasting notes, reviews and awards, etc. We were able to find some opinions from bloggers, though. Dewayne from Missouri really hated it:

From the get go I thought that this wine was horrible. The only thing I can say in kindness was that it had a gentle fruit nose. That was it, the mouth was diluted and the finish was lacking. I would be pissed off if I had bought this wine for even $8. The only thing this may be good for is vinegar.

Neil Drinks Wine gave it a qualified thumb up: “I guess if you were just sitting around with friends and drinking some wine this would make an okay amuse bouche before breaking out the good stuff.” We liked the wine more than Dewayne - I suspect a bad bottle, it doesn’t sound like the same stuff at all. Still, for the same or lower price, we’d opt for So Zin or Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel. You can probably find both of those for a few bucks less than Zen of Zin, and both deliver a bigger Zin flavor. And it’s been a year since we tasted it, but Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin would be a good choice in the same price range.

Price: $3.50
Maker: Vendange Wine Cellars, Lathrop, California
Variety: Zinfandel
Packaging: 500 ml Tetra pack
Alcohol Content: 13.0%
Our Rating: 7.0 out of 10

We were excited to find that one local merchant expanded their assortment of Vendange Tetra Packs to eight varietals. We immediately picked up a Vendange Zinfandel 2004 - we’re partial to Zins, and the Vendange packages are compact and inexpensive. Unfortunately, our excitement lasted only until we opened the wine. The nose was promising, with juicy blackberry and raspberry backed up by mild licorice and clove notes. On the palate, though, the wine was a disappointment. Weak berry and spice notes fought with an unpleasant sharpness that lingered on the back of the tongue long after the rest of the flavors had dissipated. Based on our experience with other Vendange reds, we tried letting this wine breathe for a bit; unfortunately, that didn’t help.

We do like the Vendange packaging a lot - these packs hold a half-liter of wine in an incredibly small space. But, if you are looking for a red, give Vendange Zinfandel 2004 a pass and opt for Vendange Shiraz instead - we liked it a lot more than the Zin.

Price: $10
Maker: Bogle Vineyards, Clarksburg, California
Varietal: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, natural cork
Alcohol: 14.5%
Our Rating: 9 out of 10

Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel 2004 is a big Zin at a small price. This wine’s nose is prominent, with dark berry, leather, and smoke notes. On the palate, this zin bursts with plum and cherry flavors, with oak and spice notes increasing in the finish. This is no wimpy red - it starts strong, and finishes long. According to the label, some of these vines have been producing since the early 1900s, leading to lower fruit production but more intense flavors. If you like a plummy, fruit-forward flavor, Bogle Zinfandel could be for you.

The New York Times cited this wine in Who Knew a $10 Bill Had Such a Nice Bouquet? They commented, “a Bogle zinfandel, struck me as a little too sweet; yet zinfandel deserves to be on our list, as it was for years a foundation of inexpensive California wine before it began to get fancy.” We didn’t find a particularly high level of sweetness in our bottle.

Price: $19
Maker: Cardinal Zin Cellars, Santa Cruz, California
Varietal: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, screw cap
Alcohol: 14%
Our Rating: 8.5 out of 10

Cardinal Zin 2005 features a creative, funky label design that includes the tag line, “Beastly Old Vines”. (Oddly, it’s one of the only wines we’ve seen that includes the alcohol content in a size and color that doesn’t require a magnifying glass to read.) This Zin has a nice, smoky berry aroma. The flavor is a nicely balanced mix of cherry, blackberry, and oak, with a black pepper finish that’s slightly slightly acidic. This isn’t a really gigantic Zin, but its structure will appeal to many wine drinkers, including those who avoid over-the-top Zinfandels.

From Underdog Wine Merchants:

We are zealous believers in the decadent and forbidden flavors of this sinfully delicious Zinfandel. Grown from Beastly Old Vines (vines in the ground for 20+ years), this wine elicits fervent, fecund and frenzied tongue enveloping pleasures. A wine of substance, it’s a Cardinal Zin not to drink at the altar of this decadent, rich and spicy old vine zinfandel.

An amusing sidenote is that the label art for this wine was apparently banned in Ohio. The Australian Wine Society of Toronto blog characterized the 2004 version as, “lots of plum, spice and some cherry jam.” The Guy & Girl blog described the 2003 vintage as, “Sweet, without being overbearing. Hints of pepper, very unique.” That sounds a bit different than the 2005.

The label of the bottle suggests that it complements “all manner of game and other wild beasts, including sloth.” Chances are you won’t serve sloth at your next dinner party (it’s getting sooo expensive and hard to find!), but Cardinal Zin would be a fine choice with grilled or roasted beef, or other dishes requiring a robust red to accompany them.

Price: $10
Maker: Off-Schuetz, Oakville, California
Varietal: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, natural cork
Alcohol: 14.7%
Our Rating: 9 out of 10

We tried So Zin Zinfandel 2003 at a local wine tasting, and picked up a bottle to explore more fully. Happily, the full bottle lived up to expectations. We admit to leaning toward red wines, and Zinfandels in particular, that combine boldness and complexity. Thus, in both tastings, So Zin was a winner. It offers a rich nose of ripe berry notes, combined with a background of leather and spice. The flavor is what you expect and hope for in a big zin - lots of fruit, mostly cherry in this case, well balanced with black pepper and soft tannins that lead into a long and pleasant finish. While some wine lovers look down on bigger, higher alcohol Zinfandels, So Zin makes a good case for the merits of that style.

We’re not to sure about the Off-Schuetz website, which takes off-kilter humor to new levels. At least we think that’s what it is… for example, the About Us page notes, “French people came over and the rabbits got over marinated in papaya. The cows said, ‘entonnoire’. Then there was no sushi. But there was Saudi Arabian cheese. One day, the cows from the potato chip republic of diagonal parking built four thirteenths of a website with mangosteens. And they became less invisible. With slightly higher resolution. And they drank tequila and ate durian.” I’m not sure what that tells us about the Off-Schuetz. Thankfully, So Zin Zinfandel speaks for itself.

Price: $10
Maker: Cartlidge & Browne Winery, American Canyon, California
Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon
Packaging: 750 ml bottle
Our Rating: 8.5 out of 10

We found Cartlidge & Browne Zinfandel 2005 as a special at the local Houlihan’s, the casual dining restaurant that seems to work a bit harder at their wines and beers than others in that space. They served the Zin in a oversized glass with a generous pour - there was still plenty of air space to appreciate the wine’s nose. That nose was rich with cherry and pepper notes. The wine had a big, fruity flavor. There were strong cherry and blackberry notes that led in to an oaky, spicy finish. Overall, Cartlidge & Browne Zinfandel 2005 is what you expect from a relatively inexpensive California Zin - lots of fruit up front, and a moderately complex finish.

We haven’t noticed Cartlidge & Browne Zinfandel, or any of their other varietals, in our local shops. We’re going to keep our eyes open - we liked this one well enough to try some others. In addition to the wines sold with the the Cartlidge & Browne label, they have several other lines - one that looks interesting is their Rabid Red blend.

Price: $9
Maker: Beringer Vineyards, Napa, California
Variety: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, artificial cork
Alcohol Content: 13.9%
Our Rating: 8.5 out of 10

I’m a sucker for zinfandels that claim to be “old vine” zins, so when I spotted Beringer Founders Estate Old Vine Zinfandel 2004 on the shelf I couldn’t help but pick up a bottle. And, while it may not have been the bold, intensely fruity zin that one might expect from an old vine label, there was plenty to like. The nose is fruity with some earthy notes. The flavor is a mix of blackberry, cherry, spice, and oak. The finish brings out the tannins and is fairly lengthy. Like most zins, this one will pair well with more strongly flavored food, like grilled meat, spicy pastas, etc.

We love to attend wine tastings, as they let us sample a range of wines in the space of an hour or two, without having to commit to buying and consuming a bottle of something that turns out to be not to our liking. The Vine & Spirits hosted one the other night, with a slightly unusual approach. While normally such tastings showcase the range of wines from one or several vineyards, this tasting night contrasted the offerings of different brands in four varietals: Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel. With three wines in each category, the taster could compare and contrast the different characters of each wine. This wonderfully practical approach is often superseded by the necessity of meeting the needs of a sponsor, but in this case it was an enjoyable change from the ordinary.

Rieslings
These included a Yalumba “Y” Series Riesling from Murray River, Australia, a Kiona White Riesling form Washington, and a Black Star Farms Late Harvest Riesling from Michigan. We didn’t keep notes on these, but the Kiona White was easily the sweetest, almost a dessert wine in character.

Pinot Grigios
These were Cantina Torlano Pino Grigio from Alto Adige, Italy; Torre Di Luna Pinot Grigio from Trentino, Italy, and Cantina Lavis Pinot Grigio IGT (Trentino, Italy). The Torre Di Luna wine seemed a bit more acidic, but not in a bad way.

Pinot Noirs
The Castle Rock Pinot Noir from Mendocino, California had a mild plummy flavor with a little spice. The first wine from Tasmania that I can recall tasting was Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir Devil’s Corner; this wine was rather thin, with quite a bit of pepper and acidity, but more mineral than fruit. My favorite of the group was the Babich Pinot Noir from New Zealand; it had quite a bit of body with a good mix of cherry/berry notes and pepper.

Zinfandels
The most unusually named wine of the night was Gravity Hills Tumbling Tractor Zinfandel (Paso Robles), supposedly named for an incident in which a tractor slid down the steep hillside of the vineyard. This zin had a plummy start, and a dry, peppery finish. The Graziano Zinfandel from Mendocino, California had a big, bold flavor; it was fruity, almost slightly sweet as it hit the palate, but complexity and spice increased quickly, leading into a woody finish. My favorite from the group was Schuetz Oles So Zin, a California wine that was full bodied and showed a nice balance of cherry and spice from start to finish.

At the end of the evening, I ended up taking home some of the Babich Pinot Noir and the Schuetz Oles So Zin, my two favorites of the night. Kudos to The Vine and Spirits for hosting an interesting tasting event organized by varietal rather than the more typical brand arrangement.

Maker: Clos du Bois, Geyserville, California
Price: $10
Varietal: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, natural cork
Alcohol: 13.5%
Our Rating: 8.5 out of 10

This seems to the week for good but cheap zinfandels. The lable of Clos du Bois Zinfandel 2003 describes the wine as “bold and full bodied,” and for once the description is right on the mark. The zin greets the nose with aromas of raspberry and spice, with just a bit of a smoky overtone. The flavor is smooth and full-bodied, with a spicy plum notes that lead into a peppery finish. There’s also a pleasant hint of acidity at the very end. This is a robust wine with plenty of fruit, but with other elements that add balance and complexity. I’d recommend it pairing it with grilled T-bones or hearty lasagna.

Clos du Bois has been making wines in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley for more than thirty years. Their website tells the story of the winery’s Frenchified name:

The name … reportedly originates from founder Frank Woods’ plan to name the new winery “Woods Vineyard.” His children, who were studying French at the time, suggested the more exotic “Clos du Bois” instead, which loosely translates to “enclosure in the woods.”

Clos du Bois has been invigorated by the addition of winemaker Erik Olsen in 2003. Not only is his academic background impeccable - a BS in Fermentation Science from UC Davis, an MS in Food Science from Cornell University and an MBA from the University of Washington - but the guy can make wines, too. His 2000 Single Berry Select Riesling at Chateau Ste. Michelle scored an amazing 98 points from Wine Spectator. This zin won’t score quite that well, but it will rank just fine with your guests at your next dinner or cookout.

Price: $8
Maker: Talus Collection, Woodbridge, California
Varietal: Zinfandel
Packaging: 750 ml bottle, artificial cork
Alcohol: 13.5%
Our Rating: 8.5 out of 10

Talus Collection Lodi Zinfandel 2004 is one of those sub-$10 reds that makes writing about inexpensive wines fun. This zin greets the nose with strong berry aromas seasoned with mocha. The flavor is intense and juicy, starting with red berries and a bit of oak, then finishing with lingering spice. This may not be one of the great zins of the century, but I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it for any kind of entertaining. It’s a wine that just about everyone can enjoy.

The San Francisco Chronicle reached a similar conclusion last month:

TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Talus Collection Lodi Zinfandel ($8) What an affordable crowd-pleaser. With 13.5 percent alcohol, it’s still big, plush and simple but luscious, with rich blackberry cobbler a la mode and coffee aromas and flavors and a bit of spicy oak..

The winemaker’s own tasting notes are a bit more dramatic: “The 2004 Talus Collection Lodi Zinfandel is a full-bodied wine with bright, intense aromas of brambles, spice, and cherry. Flavors of dried cherries and cranberries are enhanced by hints of toasty oak. This wine is soft and supple, with a velvety body and smooth finish. It is the perfect match for grilled meat, barbecued ribs, and spicy sausage pizza.”

Whatever the details, this wine is a great value and, as the Chronicle notes, a real crowd pleaser. In addition, it seems to be in fairly wide distribution, so you stand a good chance of finding it at your local shop.